“Every movement felt like a battle, and 3 minutes after I found myself stumbled on the floor, untying from my rope looking up wondering how and why it felt so wrong?”
Lessons for GB climber Molly Thompson-Smith on the wall.
Even the Sky Sports Scholar opens up on her challenges at one of the events around the climbing calendar because the 2020 Olympics edges nearer.
“I only really like to go to a contest feeling prepared and sitting on the plane from Munich to Tokyo I certainly felt that I was prepared.
The biggest event of this year, the World Championships was in Hachioji, Japan. Close to a year prior to the 2020 Games, this occasion felt like the.
Prior to the event could be spent training lead to Innsbruck, the facility that provides the ideal training for that I decided my period.
It was tough deciding if more time acclimatising at Japan or even more time instruction lead in this fantastic facility could be more beneficial… so I tried to get as close to equally as possible!
I prioritised world-class routes and the coaching in Innsbruck, but tried to mimic.
This was somewhat hard at the start, but after a few times I had been heading to bed in the evening and waking up between 4 and 5:30 in the morning, meaning I had cut the jet lag down by many hours!
I felt that the best I’d felt in a very long time around the wall in Innsbruck, even despite the odd eating and sleeping habits. I climbed smartly and efficiently; peaking in my conditioning sets and making decisions that were good about the walls.
I arrived in Japan five days and settled into the new time zone with absolute simplicity.
As I was only doing the direct subject, I managed to support my team-mates and friends.
I had two sessions, and sensed light and floaty… I was totally surprised by how well everything was piecing together as I usually feel that the effects of long travel and jet lag on my own coordination, energy levels and finger health.
After what felt like a life of observing folks compete, my qualification round finally came. I itched to get on the wall and reveal what had come.
I felt great in warm-up and better .
After my very first climb, I knew I had ensured my place supplied nothing went horrifically wrong.
I felt relaxed understanding I needed to move climbing on the second path, and did what I had to do without much attempt to progress to the next round in a 10th place.
The following day I felt just as good – if not better – warming up in the isolation zone for semis. I was amped, but relaxed. Calm, although nervous. Unsure what the path could be similar to, but prepared.
It was one of those times when it doesn’t come together.
Every move felt like a conflict, and three minutes later I found myself stumbled on the ground, untying from my rope appearing wondering why and how it felt wrong?
It was an experience I was eager to forget and move on from as swiftly as possible. But to proceed you have to accept disappointments and attempt to make them rewarding by taking some positives in addition to classes .
I was not happy with my scaling in semis, but I was in qualifications. I know I’m in good shape so need to work on being able to show it more frequently.
I have a few weeks before the World Cup season that is lead resumes at Kranj, Slovenia which is filled with preparation and hard trainings to ensure I have done all I could to ensure no mistakes or misfortunes are repeated in the future!
As always, a big thank you to anyone for encouraging me after my journey and Sky, even when the result is less than desirable!
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